At the moment I would like to give some fundamental tips on how to install drywall, in any other case referred to as sheet rock. It is available in various thicknesses, and every type of drywall has it is own applications and makes use of, but first let’s get our surfaces ready.
1. PREPARATION. I recommend putting in drywall directly to the wall studs or ceiling joists. Some contractors and handy men just set up new drywall over the old ones, or paneling, or lath wall. This is a poor installation method as a result of the fact that the new drywall can’t be securely mounted because of screws lacking the studs, unknown electrical or plumbing lines behind the old wall, etc. Once I see these installations, I usually attribute it to laziness, they didn’t cost enough to remove the old drywall, so on and so forth. There can be moisture, leakage, or termite issues occurring behind these walls, so remove everything to the bare studs. Check the insulation ( if any ), the situations of the studs, and plumbing and electrical lines ( if any ). If everything is good, check to ensure the studs have all nails and screws removed, and is mostly smooth and plumb( check plumb by utilizing a 6 ft. level.)
2. WALL INSTALLATION. Start by measuring the size and height of the wall to be covered. Install the drywall with the eight ft. length horizontal to the studs, if the studs are 16″ middle the drywall should line as much as 7 of the studs with the last stud on center. proceed installing, measuring and chopping the final piece. To begin the next row, set up a full drywall sheet atop the row you just completed, to create a staggered impact, making sure they line as much as the studs correctly. THE KEY TO A GOOD DRYWALL INSTALLATION IS TO STAGGER THE SHEETS. If the drywall seams line up in a “cross” pattern, this creates a weak level in the installation, and may be susceptible to crumbling.
3. CEILING INSTALLATION. Installing drywall on ceilings is more troublesome than partitions, generally it requires individuals working together. If you are working by your self, it is a good idea to lease a drywall lift for this project, working overhead wears your arms out sooner and the lift is an amazing help. Or you’ll be able to assemble what is understood within the trades as a “dead man”, which is basically two by four lumber screwed collectively to hold up the drywall while it is being screwed. ensure the joists are exposed and all nails and screws removed. measure and set up full sheets, staggering them as you move along. Measure and mark cuts for lighting and any other ceiling fixtures. IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER TO STAGGER THE SHEETS, ESPECIALLY FOR CEILINGS. Failure to take action will lead to sagging ceilings, as gravity pulls on the weak points. you would have to consistently plaster the weak spots, but finally the ceiling would fall down, or should be taken down.
4. TIPS ON PLASTERING. For wall joints I desire to use the perforated drywall tape, on corners and the place the ceilings meet the partitions I prefer to use the standard drywall tape. Using a small plaster knife (4 inch) tape your whole joints, embedding the tape as you go, smoothing out any bubbles. Let it dry completely, then lightly sand smooth. Using a wider plaster knife (7 inch) plaster all seams once more, letting it dry thoroughly. Sand lightly. for the ultimate coat, use a slightly larger plaster knife (10 inch) and plaster all seams once more, let it dry and sand it to get it ready for primer and paint. Most contractors use a minimum of 3 plaster coats on drywall, which is what I additionally recommend.
5. RECOMMENDATIONS. For walls, use 1/2″ drywall or thicker, for ceilings use 3/eight” drywall ( besides in kitchens and baths, where it is best to use half” moisture resistant drywall), for wood wall studs use 1 1/4″ coarse drywall screws, for metal wall studs use 1 1/4″ effective thread drywall screws, I do not suggest drywall nails, they generally tend to come loose, resulting in “pop outs”. For ceilings use 1 1/2″ to 1 three/four” coarse screws. Ensure to make use of fire-rated drywall in basements, and moisture-resistant drywall in kitchens and baths, Double check the building codes in your space to verify the proper types and thicknesses. Use the following tips as a guideline on your drywall set up, and it’s best to have excellent results.
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